Island Peak Climbing in Nepal Best Guide and Plan for 2025

Sushil Tiwari 10th Apr, 2025

Island Peak Climbing in Nepal – Complete Guide to Itinerary, Cost, Height, Difficulty & Route

Island Peak Climbing in Nepal (locally known as Imja Tse) is one of the most popular trekking peaks in the Himalayas. Located in the Everest region, Island Peak offers both an exhilarating mountaineering experience and breathtaking views of Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Everest. It is ideal for climbers looking to take their first step into high-altitude climbing.

---

🏔️ Island Peak Height

• Altitude: 6,189 meters (20,305 feet)

• Region: Khumbu/Everest Region, Nepal

• Location: Close to Chhukung, above the Imja Valley

• Significance: One of the most climbed trekking peaks in Nepal

---

📍 Island Peak Climbing Route

Island Peak is usually approached via the Everest Base Camp Trek route. Most climbers use this trail to acclimatize properly before reaching the Island Peak Base Camp.

Standard Route Overview:

Optional Acclimatization Extensions:

• Visit Everest Base Camp (5,364m)

• Hike to Kala Patthar (5,545m)

---

📆 Island Peak Climbing Itinerary (14–20 Days)

Here’s a sample 18-day Island Peak climbing itinerary:

• Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu

• Day 2: Fly to Lukla – Trek to Phakding

• Day 3: Trek to Namche Bazaar

• Day 4: Acclimatization in Namche

• Day 5: Trek to Tengboche

• Day 6: Trek to Dingboche

• Day 7: Acclimatization in Dingboche

• Day 8: Trek to Chhukung

• Day 9: Hike to Chhukung Ri (optional)

• Day 10: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp

• Day 11: Pre-climb training day

• Day 12: Summit Island Peak and return to Base Camp

• Day 13–16: Trek back to Lukla

• Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu

• Day 18: Departure

---

💰 Island Peak Climbing Cost (Updated for 2025)

Cost Category	Price Range (USD)
Island Peak Climbing Permit	$250 (Spring), $125 (Autumn), $70 (Winter/Summer)
Guide + Climbing Sherpa	$30–$50 per day
Lodging + Meals	$25–$35 per day
Round-trip Flights (Kathmandu–Lukla)	$300–$400
Climbing Gear Rental	$100–$200 (Crampons, harness, boots, ice axe)
Porter (optional)	$20–$25 per day
Total Package (14–20 days)	$2,000–$3,500
Luxury Climb with Everest BC Extension	$3,500–$4,500+

Costs depend on group size, trek duration, services included, and the season.

---

🧗 Island Peak Difficulty

• Climbing Grade: PD+ (Peu Difficile – French Alpine Grading)

• Experience Needed:

  • No prior technical climbing required, but basic knowledge of crampons, harness, ice axe, ropes is helpful.

  • Most companies provide pre-climb training at base camp.

• Main Challenges:

  • Glacier travel with crevasses

  • 100m headwall climb near summit

  • High altitude – risk of AMS

It’s considered a beginner-friendly peak with moderate difficulty under proper guidance and acclimatization.

---

🧭 Island Peak Location and Map

• Province: Solukhumbu, Eastern Nepal

• Park: Sagarmatha National Park

• Nearby Peaks: Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Makalu

Most maps include Island Peak as an extension route from Chhukung, east of Dingboche. The trail splits from the main Everest Base Camp route after Dingboche.

---

📅 Best Time to Climb Island Peak

Season	Months	Conditions
Spring	March–May	Best season – stable weather, clear views
Autumn	September–November	Clear skies, post-monsoon beauty
Winter	December–February	Extreme cold, fewer climbers
Monsoon	June–August	Heavy rain, not recommended

---

✅ Island Peak Permit Requirements

To climb Island Peak, you need:

1. Island Peak Climbing Permit (via NMA – Nepal Mountaineering Association)

2. Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

3. Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit

---

🧳 Packing List for Island Peak Climb

Technical Gear:

• Mountaineering boots (double-layered)

• Crampons

• Ice axe

• Harness and carabiners

• Helmet

• Rope (provided by guides)

Clothing & Trekking Gear:

• Down jacket and sleeping bag (-15°C to -20°C rated)

• Warm base layers, gloves, thermal socks

• Trekking poles, headlamp, sunglasses

• Water purification tablets and personal first aid kit

---

🏔️ Why Climb Island Peak?

• Great introduction to Himalayan mountaineering

• Combined with the legendary Everest Base Camp trek

• Summit offers panoramic views of Lhotse, Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, and more

• Opportunity to explore Sherpa culture and high-altitude villages

• Achievable for fit trekkers looking to step into alpine climbing

---

Final Thoughts

Island Peak Climbing in Nepal is the perfect adventure for trekkers who want to challenge themselves beyond trekking but aren’t quite ready for 7000m+ peaks. With the right team, proper acclimatization, and a bit of training, you can safely reach the summit and gain unforgettable Himalayan memories.