Ama Dablam-Matterhorn of the Himalayas

25th Jul, 2024

Ama Dablam, also known as Amai Dablang and famously referred to as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas,” is one of the most renowned peaks in the Himalaya range. It is the third most popular Himalayan peak for expeditions. Located in the Mahalangur subrange of the Nepalese Himalayas, Ama Dablam means “Mother’s Necklace.” The mountain's long ridges on either side are seen as the protective arms of a mother (ama), shielding her child. The hanging glaciers resemble a dablam, a traditional double pendant with a deity’s image, commonly worn by Sherpa women in Nepal.

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Ama Dablam Overview

Attribute	Details
About	Ama Dablam is a mountain in the eastern Himalayan range of Koshi Province, Nepal. The main peak is 6,812 metres, the lower western peak is 6,170 metres. Wikipedia
Elevation	6,812 m
First ascenders	Barry Bishop, Mike Gill, Wally Romanes, Mike Ward
Mountain range	Himalayas
First ascent	1961
Prominence	1,041 m
Coordinates	27°51′40″N 86°51′40″E / 27.86111°N 86.86111°E
Easiest route	Rock/snow/ice climb
Other Name	Amai Dablang
Peak ID	AMAD
Status	Opened
Elevation	6814 M / 22365 FT
Latitude	27º 51' 40"
Longitude	27º 51' 40"
History	1st ascent on March 13,1961 by Mike Gill, Wally Romanes, Barry Bishop, Michael Ward

Why is Ama Dablam so famous?

Ama Dablam, often referred to as the "Matterhorn of the Himalayas," is renowned for its stunning beauty and striking, symmetrical appearance. Its name translates to "Mother's Necklace," which reflects the extended ridges on each side like the arms of a mother (ama) protecting her child, and a hanging glacier (dablam) that resembles a traditional double-pendant containing pictures of the gods worn by Sherpa women. This picturesque peak is a prominent feature in the Everest region, captivating climbers and trekkers with its unique shape and challenging climbing routes.

Is Ama Dablam harder than Everest?

Ama Dablam is considered technically more challenging than Everest due to its steep, exposed routes and mixed climbing that includes rock, ice, and snow. While Everest presents extreme altitude and weather challenges, Ama Dablam requires a higher level of technical climbing skill, particularly on the final summit push. However, the overall climb is shorter and less physically demanding than Everest.

How long does it take to climb Ama Dablam?

Climbing Ama Dablam typically takes about 4-6 weeks, including time for acclimatization and setting up multiple camps on the mountain. The actual summit push from base camp generally spans around 4-5 days, depending on weather conditions and climber fitness.

Is Ama Dablam for beginners?

Ama Dablam is not suitable for beginners. It is considered a technically demanding peak that requires advanced climbing skills, including proficiency in rock and ice climbing, as well as experience with high-altitude mountaineering. Climbers attempting Ama Dablam should have a solid background in technical climbs and experience on other high-altitude peaks.

What is the hardest mountaineering in the world?

Opinions on the hardest mountaineering expedition vary, but several peaks are frequently cited:

K2 (8,611 meters, Pakistan/China): Known as the "Savage Mountain," K2 has a notorious reputation for its difficulty, steep sections, and high fatality rate.
Nanga Parbat (8,126 meters, Pakistan): Also called the "Killer Mountain," it has difficult routes and treacherous conditions.
Annapurna I (8,091 meters, Nepal): Despite being lower than Everest, it has one of the highest fatality rates among the 8,000-meter peaks.
Mount Everest (8,848 meters, Nepal/Tibet): While Everest is extremely popular, it still presents significant challenges due to its altitude and extreme weather conditions.

Who first climbed Ama Dablam?

Ama Dablam was first climbed on March 13, 1961, by Mike Gill (New Zealand), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (New Zealand) as part of a joint New Zealand-American expedition.

What is the death rate on Ama Dablam?

The death rate on Ama Dablam is relatively lower compared to other Himalayan peaks but still significant due to its technical difficulty. Historically, the fatality rate has been around 1-2% of climbers. However, precise statistics can vary with more recent data, considering the increased number of climbers and improved safety measures.

How much does Ama Dablam cost?

The cost of climbing Ama Dablam can vary widely depending on the expedition company, the level of support provided, and additional services. On average, the cost ranges from $6,000 to $15,000. This includes permits, guide fees, equipment, and other logistics.

Is Annapurna or Everest harder?

Comparing Annapurna and Everest in terms of difficulty is complex, as each presents unique challenges:

Annapurna: Known for its high fatality rate, Annapurna is considered one of the deadliest peaks due to its unpredictable weather, frequent avalanches, and technically challenging routes.
Everest: While Everest is the highest peak in the world and presents extreme altitude challenges, it is technically less difficult than Annapurna. The primary difficulties of Everest are its extreme altitude, weather conditions, and the physical endurance required.

In summary, Annapurna is often considered more dangerous due to its technical challenges and high fatality rate, whereas Everest is challenging due to its altitude and the physical demands of a longer expedition.